The Valjoux Cal. 88 VZHCL (“Valjoux Counter Heures Calendrier Lune”) is a hand-winding chronograph movement in the Valjoux 72 family with “triple date” and moon phase. It was used in upscale dress watches and continues to be desirable due to its functionality and the beauty of the components on the back. It was produced from 1947 through 1974. Cal. 88 was replaced by Cal. 886 in the 1970s.
It is said that 13,218 examples of Cal. 88 were produced, much higher than the similar but simpler Cal. 72C.
Valjoux 88 Operation
Cal. 88 is a “triple calendar” movement, with day and month shown via disc through dial windows and the date indicated by a central hand. It also includes a moon phase display at 6:00 on the dial, co-axial with the 12 hour counter. These are adjusted using inset pushers in the case:
- Day of week wheel with window at 11:30, advanced using an inset pusher at 10:00 with a deeper press
- Month wheel with window at 12:30, advanced using an inset pusher at 10:00
- Central date hand, advanced using an inset pusher at 8:30 with a deeper press
- Moon phase disc at 6:00, advanced using an inset pusher at 8:30
Valjoux advises not to operate the day and month or date pusher between 20:00 and 2:00 and the date and moon phase pusher between 10:00 and 14:00. This is to protect the calendar advance (at midnight) and the moon phase advance (at noon).
Overall there are 7 hands and three windows on the dial, plus four pushers and a crown around the edge:
- Central hour hand
- Central minute hand
- Central chronograph seconds hand
- Central date by pointer
- 30 minute counter at 3:00
- 12 hour counter at 6:00
- Moon phase disc at 6:00
- Running small seconds at 9:00
- Day window at 11:30
- Month window at 12:30
Valjoux 88 Applications
The Valjoux 88 was used by companies like Baume & Mercier, Eberhard & Co., Heuer, Kelek, Longines, Lucien Picard, Paul Picot, Ulysse Nardin, and Universal Genève.
Valjoux 23/72 Family Movements
The Valjoux Cal. 23/72 family was primarily made up of eight movements, with all others being variations on these. Many components are shared between most or all of these movements, with the main variations happening together over the long production of the series.
- Cal. 23 VZ – Basic movement with no hour counter
- Cal. 72 VZH – Basic movement with hour counter
- Cal. 72c VZHC – Cal. 72 with triple calendar
- Cal. 88 VZHCL – Cal. 72c with moon phase
- Cal. 78 VZSC – Non-chronograph triple calendar
- Cal. 90 VZSCL – Cal. 78 with moon phase
- Cal. 69 DX – Compact 10.5 ligne chronograph
- Cal. 89 DXC – Compact 10.5 ligne triple calendar
| Complications | 18,000 A/h No Chrono | 18,000 A/h No Hours | 18,000 A/h Hour Counter | 21,600 A/h No Hours | 21,600 A/h Hour Counter |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Base | 23 VZ 69 DX | 72 VZH 722 | 236 | 726 727 | |
| Flyback | 230 | 720 | 235 | 725 | |
| Date | 232 | 234 | |||
| Triple Date | 78 VZSC | 23C | 72c VZHC 723 | 730 | |
| Flyback and Date | 237 | ||||
| 24 Hour Hand | 724 | 729 | |||
| Calendar and Moon Phase | 89 DXC 90 VZSCL | 88 VZHCL | 886 | ||
| Tide Calculator | 721 |