Cal. NN20/1 is an automatic movement with date produced for Norqain by Kenissi. It is similar to the Tudor Cal. MT5402 but lacks the anti-magnetic silicon hairspring and features a different rotor and finishing.
There has been some controversy regarding the exact specifications of the two Norqain “in-house” movements, but these have been reduced with the release in July 2020 of the Freedom line which uses them. Cal. NN20/1 is smaller and based on the newer Cal. MT5402, while Cal. NN20/2 is much larger and based on the different Cal. MT5652. The difference in size is clearly visible when comparing the movements cased in the 39 mm Norqain Freedom watches.
There has been some controversy regarding the exact specifications of the two Norqain “in-house” movements, but these have been reduced with the release in July 2020 of the Freedom line which uses them. Cal. NN20/1 is smaller and based on the newer Cal. MT5402, while Cal. NN20/2 is much larger and based on the different Cal. MT5652. The difference in size is clearly visible when comparing the movements cased in the 39 mm and 40 mm Norqain Freedom watches.
Norqain has been open about the fact that their “in-house” NN20 movements are produced by Kenissi, and issued a press release affirming this partnership. Many have criticized the company for calling the movements “in-house” since they are clearly produced by a third party and based on their design.
Note: Contrary to the official data sheet shown below, Cal. NN20/1 has 27 jewels.
Tudor MT54 Family Overview
Tudor’s MT54 family appeared in 2018 with the introduction of Tudor’s compact Cal. MT5402. Measuring just 26 mm in diameter (11 ligne), which movement was used in the smaller Black Bay Fifty-Eight 39 mm watch models. Once production was underway at the new joint venture manufacture in Le Locle, Kinessi, specialized versions were created for Chanel and Norqain, Cal. 12.1 and NN20/1, respectively.
All three movements share the same architecture but differ dramatically in execution. The most obvious difference is the use of brand-specific winding rotors, with Chanel’s offset circle motif particularly striking. The Chanel Cal. 12.1 is also available with a date complication (and an extra jewel) though the name remains the same. Chanel’s movement also appears to be a bit reduced in diameter compared to the Tudor movement, though not by more than a few tenths of a millimeter.