Grail Watch Reference

A Reference Library for Watches from Grail Watch

Rolex 3085

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Cal. 3085 was the first Rolex movement with an independently-adjustable GMT hand. Introduced in 1983 in the GMT-Master II, the movement measured 6.3 mm thick, giving that watch the nickname “Fat Lady”. It was a short-lived movement, with the thinner Cal. 3185 introduced in 1988.

  • Rolex GMT-Master II (2003-2008), Ref. 16760
  • Rolex Explorer II (1985-1988), Ref. 16550

It is a 28,800 A/h 12.5 ligne movement with bi-directional automatic winding and chronometer certification. The movement is 28.5 mm in diameter and 6.3 mm thick, with 27 jewels. It has a power reserve of 48 hours.

The movement can be manually wound with the crown in position 1. Rotate the crown clockwise to wind the mainspring.

The date wheel is advanced along with the independent 12 hour hand, forward or backward, with the crown in second position (one notch out). Set the hour hand to the local time and date, leaving the 24 hour hand showing “home time”.

The time is set with the crown in third position (pulled all the way out). Rotate the crown clockwise to advance the minute and hour hands and counter-clockwise to turn them backward.

3000 Family3100 FamilyParachrom FamilyChronergy Family
1977-20011988-20102005-present2015-present
Time Only300031303132
Milgauss3131
Datejust303531353135
3136		3235
Day-Date3055315531563255
GMT307531753187
GMT II3085318531863285

ETA 2892-2

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ETA’s 2892-2 was an ultra-thin automatic watch movement and part of the second generation of the ETA 2890 family. It was introduced in 1983 as an update to the outgoing ETA 2892, and remained in production until 2000. The current ETA 2892A2 is the successor movement.

The short-lived Eterna 1504 and ETA 2892 used a large winding mass to power the strong mainspring needed to operate at 28,800 A/h. But when the diameter of the plate was reduced from 12.5”’ to 11.5”’ (25.6 mm) for this ETA 2892-2, issues arose. The winding mass, combined with inefficiencies in the automatic winding works, caused the ETA 2892-2 and related second-generation movements to disappoint users by not being fully wound throughout the day. This was remedied in the successor ETA 2892A2.

The ETA 2892-2 features a date complication like the predecessor ETA 2892. Since it was easy to omit this display, and the advanced date works did not affect the 3.6 mm height of the movement, no successor to the non-date ETA 2890 was created. This movement was used as the basis for a number of modular variants:

  • ETA 2890-9 (1990-2000): Perpetual calendar with moon phase
  • ETA 2891-9 (1990-2000): Perpetual calendar with moon phase and central seconds
  • ETA 2894-2 (1996-present): Chronograph with date and small seconds
  • ETA 2894S2: Skeletonized chronograph with small seconds
  • ETA 2895-1 (1997-2000): Sate and small seconds

Many manufacturers customized the ETA 2892-2 ebauche. Notable variants on this movement include the IWC 3575, 35780, 35782, 35790, and 37521. Clones of this movement include the Sellita SW300.

ETA 2890

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ETA’s 2890 was an ultra-thin automatic watch movement and the first in the ETA 2890 family. It was introduced in 1975, as Eterna’s movement operations were folded into ETA, and removed from production in 1983. The ETA 2892-2 (with date) was the successor movement.

Closely related to the short-lived Eterna 1504, the ETA 2890 operates at 28,800 A/h, has 21 jewels, and features an automatic winding system embedded into the movement rather than attached above it. This gives it the signature 3.6 mm depth which remains the hallmark of the family to date.

The ETA 2890 and closely-related ETA 2892 (with date) measured 12.5”’ (28.0 mm) in diameter. The oscillating weight extended to the edge of this plate, effectively winding the stiff mainspring needed to drive the high-beat 28,800 A/h balance.