BVL 318

Cal. BVL 318 is an ultra-thin automatic chronograph movement with GMT from Bulgari. It is a record-setting movement, just 3.30 mm thick despite all of these complications. It uses a peripheral winding rotor, a signature feature of Bulgari’s haute horology “Finissimo” movements, of which it is the least-expensive.

Many aspects of this movement are unusual in their design. The peripheral automatic winding rotor is unusual in any movement but practically unheard of in a chronograph. Although It is also extremely unusual for any movement to place a 24 hour subdial at 3:00. But perhaps the most unusual aspect of the movement is the chronograph pusher: It is operated by a single push button at 2:00, while the complementary push piece 4:00 is used to lock the rotor and allow adjustment of the time using the winding stem.

Bulgari opted for a horizontal clutch for the chronograph function to reduce the thickness of the movement. It is visible at 3:00 on the case back (with the stem at 9:00), just above the balance wheel. The 6-column chronograph program wheel is placed at 7:30, as the other Finissimo chronograph movement, Cal. BVL 388.

The central hour hand is advanced one hour at a time using the push piece at 9:00 on the case. Because the 24 hour subdial continues running as “home time”, this is considered to be a “True GMT” watch movement.

According to Peter Speake-Marin, the diameter of the movement is 37.2 mm. He also shows the unique design of the GMT hand and the rotor, which features a platinum section and is mounted on ball bearings. Speake-Marin also discusses the chronograph design in detail, commenting that it is “conventional in conception” and “classically strong” despite the thin profile.

Although Bulgari introduced another Finissimo automatic chronograph the following year, Cal. BVL 388 shares little of its design with this movement.

Cal. BVL 288 Applications

Cal. BVL 288 was only used in a single watch.

• 2019-present Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT